How to Replace a Kitchen Faucet
To replace a kitchen faucet, shut off the supply valves under the sink, disconnect the hot and cold supply lines, and loosen the mounting nuts with a basin wrench. Lift out the old faucet, clean the deck, set the new faucet with its gasket, then reconnect the lines and check for leaks. Most DIY swaps take one to two hours and cost $150 to $360 with a plumber.
Match the new faucet to your sink before you buy
Before you buy, count the mounting holes in your sink deck, most have one to four. A single-hole faucet needs one hole; a faucet with a separate sprayer or soap dispenser needs more. If your new faucet uses fewer holes than the sink has, a deck plate (escutcheon) covers the extras. Measure hole spacing too, since widespread sets need an 8-inch spread.
| Sink mounting holes | Faucet setup that fits | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 1 hole | Single-hole faucet | Cleanest look; pull-down sprayers are built into the spout |
| 2 holes | Faucet plus a separate sprayer or soap dispenser | Common on older two-piece setups |
| 3 holes | Single-handle faucet with a deck plate, or a widespread two-handle set | A deck plate hides the two outer holes |
| 4 holes | Faucet plus sprayer plus soap dispenser or air gap | Cap any hole you do not use |
Take a photo of the underside of your current faucet and the sink deck before you shop. Note the finish (matte black and brushed nickel do not mix well with existing hardware) and whether your dishwasher drain needs an air gap, which many local codes still require.
Tools and parts you need
You need a basin wrench, an adjustable wrench, channel-lock pliers, a bucket, towels, and a flashlight, plus the new faucet and fresh braided supply lines. The basin wrench is the one tool most people lack, and it is what makes the mounting nuts behind the bowl reachable. Budget about $15 to $25 for one, or check our essential plumbing tools guide.
| Tool or part | What it does | Approx cost |
|---|---|---|
| Basin wrench | Reaches and turns the mounting nuts behind the bowl | $15 to $25 |
| Adjustable wrench | Loosens and tightens supply-line nuts | $10 to $20 |
| Channel-lock pliers | Grips brittle plastic nuts and fittings | $12 to $20 |
| Putty knife or scraper | Removes old putty and silicone from the deck | $5 to $10 |
| New braided supply lines | Replace old lines to prevent under-sink leaks | $8 to $15 each |
| Plumber’s putty or silicone | Seals the faucet base if it has no gasket | $5 to $8 |
| PTFE (thread seal) tape | Seals tapered thread connections | $2 to $4 |
| New kitchen faucet | The fixture itself | $90 to $400 |
Shut off the water first
Shut off the water first, every time. Reach under the sink and close both supply valves by turning them clockwise, then open the faucet to bleed the pressure and drain the lines. If the stops will not seat or leak, close the main shut-off for the house. Put a bucket under the connections to catch the water still sitting in the supply lines.
If you cannot find the fixture stops or they are frozen with corrosion, learn where to shut off the water to your house at the main. A failed shut-off valve is worth replacing while you have the faucet apart, since a valve that will not close makes the next repair a two-person emergency.
Remove the old faucet
With the water off, disconnect the supply lines at the faucet tailpieces with an adjustable wrench, then attack the mounting nuts. These sit behind the bowl in a space too tight for a normal wrench, which is where the basin wrench earns its keep. Old nuts are often corroded or plastic and brittle, so work slowly and expect this step to take the longest.
- Disconnect the hot and cold supply lines at the faucet shanks with an adjustable wrench; a little water will drain, so keep the bucket handy.
- Disconnect the sprayer hose and any soap dispenser or quick-connect fitting.
- Fit the basin wrench jaws onto a mounting nut behind the bowl and turn counterclockwise. Flip the head to reverse direction when you switch sides.
- If a nut is seized, spray penetrating oil, wait ten minutes, and try again; break brittle plastic nuts off with pliers if they will not turn.
- Once all nuts are off, lift the old faucet up and out through the top of the deck.
- Scrape off old putty, silicone, or gasket residue and wipe the deck clean and dry.
Basin wrench tip: work from a lying-down position with a headlamp, and use your free hand to hold the faucet body still up top while the wrench turns the nut below. A long-handled or telescoping basin wrench reaches the deepest cabinets, and its spring-loaded jaws grab the nut so you are not fighting the tool and the nut at once.
Install the new faucet
Installing the new faucet reverses the removal, with one addition: seal the base. Feed the faucet’s supply lines and shanks down through the mounting hole, set the gasket or a bead of silicone under the base, and thread the mounting nuts on from below. Center the faucet, then tighten the nuts with the basin wrench. Snug is enough; overtightening cracks gaskets and warps the base.
- If you are using a deck plate, set its gasket on the sink, then position the plate over the holes.
- Drop the faucet’s shanks and supply lines through the mounting hole. Have a helper hold it centered and square from above.
- From below, thread on the mounting nuts (and any brace plate). Hand-tighten, confirm the faucet is straight, then snug with the basin wrench.
- Attach the pull-down sprayer hose and clip on the counterweight if the faucet has one.
- Connect any soap dispenser or air gap that came with the faucet.
Connect the supply lines and check for leaks
Connect the water last, and always with new braided stainless supply lines. Hand-thread each line onto the shut-off valve, hot on the left and cold on the right, then snug about a quarter turn past hand-tight with a wrench. Turn the water on slowly, run the faucet hot and cold, and feel every joint for drips. A dry paper towel finds slow weeps fast.
- Wrap the valve threads with PTFE tape only if the connection is tapered; most compression stops need none.
- Thread the new supply lines onto the faucet shanks and the shut-off valves, and do not cross hot and cold.
- Remove the aerator from the spout so any debris flushes out instead of clogging it.
- Open both shut-off valves slowly and let the faucet run for a minute.
- Check under the sink with a flashlight and a dry towel; tighten any joint that weeps a quarter turn at a time.
- Reinstall the aerator once the water runs clear.
Cost to hire a plumber
Hiring a plumber to replace a kitchen faucet often costs $150 to $360 all in, with a national average near $262 for a straightforward swap. Labor alone runs about $120 to $250, or $45 to $200 per hour, and most pros finish in 30 to 60 minutes. Drilling a new sink hole adds $50 to $100. The faucet itself runs $90 to $400.
| Line item | DIY | Hire a plumber |
|---|---|---|
| Kitchen faucet (the fixture) | $90 to $400 | $90 to $400 |
| Labor | $0 | $120 to $250 |
| New supply lines and small parts | $10 to $30 | Usually included |
| Optional: drill a new sink hole | $50 to $100 (bit rental) | $50 to $100 |
| Typical time | 1 to 2 hours | 30 to 60 minutes |
| Total | $100 to $430 | $210 to $600 (avg near $262) |
Buying the faucet yourself controls the biggest swing in price. For a quick gut check on any quote, compare it against what plumbing repairs cost by job, since rates vary by region and by how badly the old fixture fights you.
When it is a repair, not a replacement
Not every faucet problem calls for a replacement. If the spout only drips or the handle leaks, the fix is usually a worn washer, O-ring, or cartridge, a repair that costs a few dollars in parts. Replace the whole faucet when the body is cracked, the finish is failing, the base leaks past repair, or you want a new style or sprayer.
If the fixture is otherwise solid and just drips, you can often fix a leaky faucet instead for a fraction of a full swap. Save the replacement for when the faucet is worn out, outdated, or you are already upgrading the sink.
Frequently asked questions
How long does it take to replace a kitchen faucet?
A DIY kitchen faucet replacement usually takes one to two hours, and longer if the old mounting nuts are corroded or the cabinet is cramped. A licensed plumber typically finishes in 30 to 60 minutes. The removal of the old faucet, not the install, eats the most time, because reaching seized nuts behind the bowl with a basin wrench is slow work.
Can I replace a kitchen faucet myself?
Yes. Most homeowners can replace a kitchen faucet with basic tools and about two hours. You need to shut off the water, disconnect and remove the old faucet, mount the new one, and reconnect the supply lines. A basin wrench and a helper make it much easier. Call a plumber if the shut-off valves fail or you need a new hole drilled.
Do I need a basin wrench to replace a kitchen faucet?
A basin wrench is not strictly required, but it is the tool that makes the job doable for most people. The faucet mounting nuts sit behind the sink bowl in a gap too tight for a standard wrench. A basin wrench’s long shaft and pivoting jaws reach and turn those nuts. One costs about $15 to $25 and is worth buying.
Should I replace the supply lines when I install a new faucet?
Yes, replace the supply lines whenever you install a new faucet. New braided stainless steel lines cost about $8 to $15 each and remove the biggest cause of under-sink leaks: an old, kinked, or corroded line that fails months later. Reusing old lines and washers to save a few dollars often leads to a slow leak you will not notice until it damages the cabinet.
How much does a plumber charge to replace a kitchen faucet?
A plumber usually charges $120 to $250 in labor to replace a kitchen faucet, or $45 to $200 per hour, with total replacement costs averaging about $262 including a mid-range faucet. Complex jobs, corroded shut-off valves, or drilling a new sink hole ($50 to $100) push the price toward $500 to $600. Get the faucet yourself to control the largest variable cost.
Why is my new kitchen faucet leaking after installation?
A new faucet that leaks usually has a loose connection, not a defect. Check the supply-line nuts first and snug them a quarter turn. If water pools at the base, the gasket or silicone seal under the faucet was not seated evenly, so reseat it. A drip from the spout points to debris in the cartridge; remove the aerator and flush the lines.
Last reviewed: August 2026.