How to Fix a Leaky Faucet by Faucet Type
To fix a leaky faucet, shut off the water at the supply valves under the sink, identify your faucet type (compression, cartridge, ball, or ceramic disk), then replace the worn part inside: a washer and seat for compression faucets, a cartridge for cartridge faucets, seats and springs for ball faucets, or neoprene seals for ceramic disk faucets. Most repairs take under an hour and cost $3 to $25 in parts. Related: replace the faucet.
Shut off the water before you touch anything
Turn off the water supply first, every time, no exceptions. Reach under the sink and close both shut-off valves (turn clockwise). If there are no valves or they will not seat, close the main shut-off for the house. Then open the faucet to drain the line and drop the pressure to zero before you loosen a single nut.
Cover the drain with a rag or a stopper so a dropped screw or clip does not disappear down the pipe. Lay a towel in the basin, and set parts down in the order you remove them so reassembly is just the same steps in reverse.
Identify which of the four faucet types you have
There are four faucet types, and the fix is different for each, so name yours before you buy a part. Two handles almost always means a compression faucet. A single handle can be a cartridge, ball, or ceramic disk faucet, which you tell apart by how the handle moves and by what sits under the cap. The table below maps what you can see to the type, the usual leak point, and the part to buy.
| Faucet type | How to identify it | Common leak cause | Part you replace |
|---|---|---|---|
| Compression | Two separate handles (hot and cold) that you screw down tight to stop the flow; common in older homes | Worn rubber washer or a pitted valve seat | Stem washer, seat washer, and often the valve seat |
| Cartridge | One or two handles that move smoothly with no tightening feel; handle lifts and swivels | Worn cartridge or its O-rings | Matching replacement cartridge plus O-rings |
| Ball | Single handle mounted on a rounded dome cap directly over the spout base | Worn rubber seats and springs, or a cracked ball | Seats-and-springs repair kit, sometimes the ball and cam |
| Ceramic disk | Single lever on a wide cylindrical body; feels solid and modern | Worn neoprene seals or mineral buildup on the disk cylinder | Neoprene seals (rarely the full disk cartridge) |
If you still are not sure, pull the handle and read the part inside. A brass or plastic stem with a rubber washer on the bottom is compression. A tall removable cylinder held by a clip is a cartridge. A slotted plastic or metal ball under a cap is a ball faucet. A short wide cylinder with two polished disks is ceramic disk. Brands help too: Moen leans cartridge, Delta made the classic ball faucet, and many Kohler and American Standard single-levers use ceramic disk.
Gather the tools and parts
Most faucet repairs need only hand tools. Keep an adjustable wrench, slotted and Phillips screwdrivers, needle-nose pliers, and a hex key set within reach. Add plumber’s grease for O-rings, white vinegar for mineral cleanup, and the specific repair part for your faucet type. A cartridge puller (about $10) and a seat wrench help on stubborn jobs.
- Tools: adjustable wrench, screwdrivers, needle-nose pliers, hex (Allen) keys, utility knife, and an old toothbrush. A fuller kit is covered in our guide to essential plumbing tools.
- Universal parts: assorted O-rings and washers ($5 to $15 kit), plumber’s grease, and PTFE (thread seal) tape.
- Type-specific parts: stem and seat washers for compression, a matching cartridge ($10 to $25) for cartridge faucets, a seats-and-springs kit ($10 to $20) for ball faucets, or neoprene seals for ceramic disk.
Bring the old part or your faucet’s brand and model number to the store. A cartridge or ball that is close but not exact will leak, and matching the original is the single biggest reason a repair holds. Manufacturers such as Moen (1-800-289-6636) will often ship a warranty cartridge free if you have the model.
The repair process, step by step
Every faucet follows the same arc: kill the water, take the handle off, pull the worn part, swap in the exact replacement, then reassemble in reverse. The only thing that changes is which internal part you replace. Work in order and keep the removed pieces lined up.
- Shut off the supply valves under the sink and open the faucet to relieve pressure.
- Pop off the decorative cap or button on the handle with a small flat screwdriver, then remove the handle screw and lift the handle off.
- Unscrew the packing nut, bonnet, or retaining clip to expose the internal part (stem, cartridge, ball, or disk cylinder).
- Pull the worn part straight up and inspect it: look for a flattened washer, torn O-ring, corroded seat, or a scored cartridge.
- Replace the failed part with an exact match. Lubricate new O-rings with plumber’s grease and seat everything squarely.
- Reassemble in reverse order. Hand-tighten, then snug with the wrench. Do not overtighten, which deforms new washers.
- Turn the supply back on slowly, run the faucet, and check for drips at the spout and around the base.
Compression faucet fix
A compression faucet leaks because the rubber stem washer or the valve seat is worn. After removing the handle and packing nut, unscrew the brass stem, then remove the screw holding the washer at the bottom and fit an identical washer (match beveled versus flat). If the leak continues, the seat is pitted: dress it with a seat wrench or replace it, since a rough seat destroys a fresh washer fast.
Cartridge faucet fix
A cartridge faucet leaks when the cartridge or its O-rings wear out. Pull the retaining clip with needle-nose pliers, note the cartridge orientation, and lift it straight out (a cartridge puller helps if it is stuck). Drop in the exact replacement in the same orientation, replace the O-rings with greased ones, and reassemble. Getting the brand and model right here matters more than on any other type.
Ball faucet fix
A ball faucet has the most small parts, so a full seats-and-springs kit is the reliable fix. Remove the handle and cap, lift out the cam and ball, then use the tip of a pencil to pull the two rubber seats and their springs from the bottom of the sockets. Press the new springs and seats in, reseat the ball and cam aligned to the slot, and tighten the adjusting ring so the handle moves smoothly with no drip.
Ceramic disk faucet fix
A ceramic disk faucet rarely fails, and when it drips the cause is usually worn neoprene seals or mineral scale, not the disk itself. Remove the handle set screw, lift the cap and the disk cylinder, and pull the neoprene seals from the underside. Soak the cylinder openings in white vinegar to clear buildup, fit new seals, and reassemble. Turn the water on gently, because a slug of pressure can crack the ceramic disks.
When the drip is not the faucet
If water pools at the base or under the sink rather than dripping from the spout, you may have a supply-line connection, a worn base gasket, or a leaking shut-off valve instead of a worn faucet part. Tighten supply-line nuts a quarter turn and dry everything, then watch where the water returns. A pooling leak that soaks the cabinet can also masquerade as a slow drain issue; our guide to unclog a slow drain covers that split.
Call a licensed plumber when the faucet body is cracked, the shut-off valves will not close, the repair fails twice, or the fixture is a discontinued model with no available parts. In many areas a simple faucet repair from a pro runs $100 to $400, averaging near $270. See what plumbing repairs cost by job to gauge a fair quote before you book, since prices vary by region and faucet.
Why fixing it fast is worth it
A faucet that drips once per second wastes roughly 3,000 gallons a year, per US EPA WaterSense figures, enough to run more than 180 showers. That is money down the drain on a $3 washer, plus the mineral staining and, over time, the corrosion a constant drip leaves on the basin. Catching a drip early keeps a five-minute fix from becoming a full faucet replacement.
Frequently asked questions
Why does my faucet drip when it is turned off?
A faucet that drips when off has lost its internal seal. In a compression faucet the rubber washer or valve seat is worn. In a cartridge, ball, or ceramic disk faucet the cartridge, rubber seats and springs, or O-rings have failed. Water sneaks past the worn part even with the handle fully closed, so replacing that part stops the drip.
Can I fix a leaky faucet myself?
Most homeowners can. A dripping spout is usually a worn washer, O-ring, cartridge, or seat, a $3 to $20 part you can swap with a screwdriver, an adjustable wrench, and pliers in under an hour. Shut off the supply valves first. If the faucet body is cracked or the shut-off valves fail, call a licensed plumber.
How do I know what type of faucet I have?
Count the handles and feel how they move. Two handles that screw down tight to stop flow means a compression faucet. One handle over a round cap is a ball faucet. One handle that glides up and down and side to side is usually a cartridge or ceramic disk faucet. Confirm by removing the handle and reading the cartridge or ball inside.
What parts do I need to fix a dripping faucet?
It depends on the type. Compression faucets need a rubber washer and often a new valve seat. Cartridge faucets need a matching replacement cartridge, often $10 to $25. Ball faucets need a seats-and-springs repair kit. Ceramic disk faucets need new neoprene seals. Buy O-rings and plumber’s grease for any type, and match the brand and model when you can.
How much does it cost to fix a leaky faucet?
A DIY repair runs about $3 to $25 in parts: washers and O-rings cost $1 to $15, a cartridge $10 to $25, and a ball repair kit $10 to $20. Hiring a plumber often costs $100 to $400, with a national average near $270 depending on your area and the faucet. Fixing the drip fast also saves water and money on your bill.
Why is my faucet still dripping after I replaced the washer or cartridge?
Usually the valve seat is pitted or you installed the wrong part. A rough, corroded seat chews up a new washer within days, so dress it with a seat wrench or replace it. Also confirm the cartridge, O-ring, or washer exactly matches the original size and brand. Reassembling too tight can also deform a new washer and cause a drip.
Last reviewed: August 2026.