Outdoor Faucet Leaking? How to Fix a Hose Bib by Where It Leaks
An outdoor faucet leaking usually points to one of three spots: the handle or packing nut, the spout (a worn washer or seat), or the pipe behind the wall from a freeze crack. Fix it by where it leaks. Shut off the water first, tighten or repack the handle, or swap the washer or stem. Frost-free faucets use one long stem you replace as a unit.
Shut off the water before you start
Turn off the water to the spigot before you loosen anything. On a standard hose bib, close the dedicated shut-off valve inside the wall or basement, then open the faucet to drain it. On a frost-free faucet there is often no separate valve, so close the main house shut-off. Zero pressure means no spray in your face and no flooded crawlspace.
Diagnose the leak by where the water shows up
Where the water appears tells you the cause and the fix. Water at the handle or packing nut means loose packing or a bad stem O-ring. A drip from the spout after you close it means a worn washer or pitted seat. Water only while running from the top usually means a failed vacuum breaker. Water inside the wall on a frost-free means a split stem.
| Where it leaks | Likely cause | The fix |
|---|---|---|
| From the handle or packing nut (while open) | Loose packing nut or worn packing washer/O-ring | Tighten the packing nut a quarter turn; if it still weeps, replace the packing or O-ring |
| From the spout after you close it | Worn rubber washer or a pitted valve seat | Replace the washer (smooth side down); dress or replace the seat |
| From a cap on top, only while running | Failed vacuum breaker (anti-siphon device) | Clean or replace the vacuum breaker with a repair kit |
| From the threaded outlet where the hose screws on | Missing or flattened hose washer | Add or replace the rubber hose washer in the outlet |
| From the faucet body itself | Cracked brass from a freeze or corrosion | Replace the whole faucet |
| Inside the wall, or a drip that will not stop (frost-free) | Split stem tube from a freeze | Replace the entire frost-free stem, matched to your wall length |
Fix a leak from the handle or packing nut
A leak at the handle is the easiest fix. First try snugging the packing nut a quarter turn with an adjustable wrench while the faucet is on, since it loosens over time. If it still weeps, shut off the water, pull the stem, and replace the packing washer or wrap new Teflon packing string around the stem threads about one and a quarter turns.
Fix a drip from the spout (washer and seat)
A spout that drips after you shut the handle has a worn washer or a chewed-up valve seat. With the water off, unscrew the bonnet or packing nut, pull the stem, and remove the brass screw holding the rubber washer at the tip. Fit an exact-size replacement, smooth side down. If the seat inside the body feels rough, dress it with a seat wrench.
Fix a leak from the top only when the water runs (vacuum breaker)
If your faucet leaks from a cap on top only while water flows, the vacuum breaker has failed. This anti-siphon part is code in most areas to keep hose water from backflowing into your supply. Pop off the cap, lift out the small plastic pieces, and rinse them. If cleaning does not stop the leak, drop in a matching vacuum breaker repair kit.
Fix a frost-free (frost-proof) faucet
A frost-free faucet has a long stem that shuts water off 6 to 12 inches back inside a heated wall, so the washer and seat sit deep, not at the spout. Repair is the same idea but the stem is longer. Shut off the water, unscrew the packing nut behind the handle, and pull the entire stem straight out to reach the washer.
Leaks from inside the wall after shutoff mean a split stem
Water dripping inside the wall or from a spout that will not stop usually means the stem tube split, from a hose left on over winter freezing the trapped water. No washer fixes it: replace the whole stem, matched to your wall length. See our guides to fixing a leaking pipe and thawing frozen pipes.
The repair process, step by step
The same core process fixes most outdoor faucet leaks, whatever the type. Work slow, keep parts in order, and match every replacement to the original. Have an adjustable wrench, slip-joint pliers, a screwdriver, Teflon tape and packing, and a washer or repair kit ready before you start. Budget about 20 to 40 minutes and $5 to $25 in parts for a DIY fix.
- Shut off the water: close the spigot’s shut-off valve, or the main house shut-off for a frost-free, then open the faucet to drain the line.
- Loosen the packing nut or bonnet nut behind the handle with slip-joint pliers or an adjustable wrench.
- Unscrew and pull the stem straight out. On a frost-free faucet, pull the full long stem all the way out.
- Inspect the washer at the tip, the packing under the nut, and the O-ring on the stem. Replace whatever is worn with exact matches.
- If the spout still dripped, check the valve seat inside the body and dress it with a seat wrench or replace it.
- Reassemble in reverse, wrapping fresh Teflon packing around the stem about one and a quarter turns, then hand-tighten before the final wrench snug.
- Turn the water back on slowly and test. Watch the handle, spout, and top cap for any weeping. A basic set of essential plumbing tools covers every step here.
When to replace the whole faucet instead of repairing it
Replace the faucet, not just a part, when the body is cracked, the threads are stripped, or it is corroded and hard to turn. A new standard hose bib runs $8 to $20, a frost-free faucet $15 to $40, plus $100 to $250 if a plumber solders or sweats it on. If the faucet is over 10 to 15 years old and leaking often, replacing beats repeat repairs.
Frequently asked questions
Why is my outdoor faucet leaking from the handle?
A leak at the handle almost always means the packing nut is loose or the packing washer under it has worn out. Water escapes up around the stem when you open the faucet. Try tightening the packing nut a quarter turn first. If it still leaks, shut off the water, pull the stem, and replace the packing or O-ring.
Can I fix a leaking outdoor faucet myself?
Most homeowners can. A handle or spout leak is usually a washer, O-ring, or packing, a $2 to $15 part you swap with an adjustable wrench, pliers, and a screwdriver in under 40 minutes. Shut off the water first. Call a licensed plumber if the faucet body is cracked, a frost-free stem has burst, or the fix needs soldering.
Why does my outdoor faucet leak only when the water is running?
A leak that shows up only while water flows, usually from a cap on top, points to a failed vacuum breaker rather than a worn washer. The vacuum breaker is an anti-siphon device required by code in many areas. Pop off the cap, clean or replace the small plastic parts with a repair kit, and the top leak stops.
How do I know if I have a frost-free faucet?
Look at the length and where it shuts off. A frost-free faucet has a long body and the water stops 6 to 12 inches back inside the wall, so no water sits in the exposed spout after you close it. A standard hose bib is short and shuts off right at the handle. Frost-free faucets often slope slightly downward to drain.
How much does it cost to fix or replace an outdoor faucet?
A DIY repair runs about $5 to $25 in parts: washers, O-rings, and packing cost a few dollars, and a vacuum breaker or stem kit runs $8 to $20. A new standard hose bib costs $8 to $20, a frost-free faucet $15 to $40. Hiring a plumber often adds $100 to $250, more if the connection needs soldering.
Why is my frost-free faucet leaking behind the wall after I shut it off?
That points to a split stem tube, not a worn washer. Leaving a hose attached over winter traps water in the stem, which freezes, expands, and cracks the tube behind the wall. When the faucet runs, water leaks inside the wall. Replace the entire stem, sized to your wall thickness, and remove hoses before the first freeze each year.
Last reviewed: August 2026.